Interview with Wilo Benet: Varita

By JULIETTE ROSSANT News out of Chicago last week was hardly surprising: Charlie Trotter pulled out of a deal to open a fine-dining restaurant in the new Elysian Hotel. The hotel issued a joint statement saying they had "mutually and amicably agreed to part company." The restaurant was scheduled to open in four months – in the middle of a severe economic downturn. But what is surprising is how many chefs are going ahead with plans for new restaurant, despite, or because of the economy. The Wall Street Journal reported that celebrity chefs including Wolfgang Puck, Jean Georges Vongerichten, Thomas Keller, Terrance Brennan, and John Besh have or are going ahead with new restaurants. Super Chef has heard of many other openings including Susan Feniger's Street and Wilo Benet's Varita. There are plenty of reasons to move forward, but since the stakes are high for any new restaurant. Opening during an economic downturn means even more risk. However, not everyone is financially hurt by the economic downturn. There is still a need for special occasion restaurants on the high end, and for more affordable choices for other times. And it is often easier to get publicity for a new restaurant than for one that has been around for a while. Super Chef decided to take a closer look by interviewing Wilo Benet, arguably Puerto Rico's best chef. He already owns Pikayo, a fine dining restaurant housed at the Museo de Arte (see Super Chef's review), and Payá, a casual dining restaurant located at City View Plaza in Guaynabo. On February 11th, 2009, he opened Varita in the Condado Plaza Hotel, located in the Condado area of San Juan. The agreement between Wilo and the hotel to open the restaurant was signed before the crisis started. In addition, Wilo says that the property owners helped with better deals. Super Chef: Were construction cost lower? Wilo Benet: Construction is somewhat more affordable since the pie is shrinking for them. We do have lower margins, even when not justifiable with other operational overheads. Super Chef: Is Puerto Rico a different market for restaurateurs then somewhere in the US mainland? Wilo Benet: In Puerto Rico specifically, labor laws are crunching budgets with elements like guaranteed vacations, sick pay, Christmas bonus, and more on the way of overtime calculations. Despite our little paradise destination status, we have many challenges. Everything we use is imported, with soaring costs in transportation. Super Chef: How did you choose the menu and price point for Varita? Wilo Benet: Puerto Rico has a strong, local clientele for Pikayo but more for my Paya and Varita concepts, due in no small part to price point plus casual ambiance and simpler foods. I greatly believe that comfort, casual, basic foods - whatever we want to call it - will have growth, since the public will want to emulate more the home sensation without having to fix those meals themselves while feeling that they are reacting responsibly to the challenges the times have presented. I think as well that no matter how bad things get, the general public will most likely continue consuming. It's just a matter of finding out what it is they want to consume and providing it for them. Basic Business Practice. It's like fashion cycles: what used to be hot 20-30 years ago may a have a renewed chance (with a twist) later. I have considered growth with price point plus novelty to separate myself from the crowd a bit. These help provide positive volumes in tough times. Over the long haul, they should provide certain nostalgic elements when times get better, since these will be places to remember during the depression. These are times that will provide great opportunities for those who have carefully studied their markets and have the capital or access to liquidity to build them. Previous articles: Wilo Benet: Puerto Rico True Flavors FOOD FLICKS: Wilo Benet - Rellenos De Papa Wilo Benet: Pikayo Perfecto Wilo Benet: Recipe For Success Rewarded Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging, cookbooks, cookbook reviews, Wilo Benet --> back to Super Chef