2008/11/24

Holiday Gifts: Turner Hams

By JULIETTE ROSSANT

Turner Hams logo

After this November's immensely important election, why not celebrate with American products from a state that finally voted Democratic. Super Chef likes fine ham, and though Europe is full of famous hams, this year we are excited Virginia ham from the Turner Ham House in Fulks Run, Va.

Super Chef traveled out to the Ham House to learn more about why these hams are so good. If you are familiar with the intensely salty Virginia cured ham, Turner ham will surprise you. It's cured with a mixture of both salt and brown sugar and saltpeter (sodium nitrate). Ron and Peggie Turner use Ron's great grandfather's recipe. They start with 42,000 pounds or about 2,000 Indiana hams that are delivered four to five times a year, usually starting in January. They are first coated in the brown sugar-salt mixture in a curing trough. Then the hams are laid out on curing shelves stacked three deep for about 54 days. The excess cure is washed off and the hams are left to dry in 75-degree heat for at least 35 days, which causes the ham to shrink and loose weight. The hams are ready after four to five months. The longer the hams are left to age, the deeper and darker the meat will look, and of course, the tastier. The hams hung for 11 months or more will take on the richness of prosciutto. Thinly sliced, it is melt in the mouth hammy perfection.

Ham, by Turner Hams If you can get to Virginia, visit Fulks Run, which lies in the Shendoah, in a stunning valley just past Brocks Gap. The Turners run the Fulks Run Grocery store. It's a general store jam packed with local family histories, displays of arrowheads, antique farm equipment and toys, and fishing bait and tackle. They make great ham sandwiches out of their own fried or boiled ham - but it's also simple to order by phone.

For the Turners, traditional is best. They soak slices in warm water for 10-15 minutes and then fry them with eggs for a hearty breakfast. Their daughter Celia likes ham steaks on the grill. She recommends that after soaking grill the meat for 2-3 minutes on each side and then baste with a mixture of butter and honey. They like whole boneless ham cooked in a mixture of apple cider and water for twenty minutes per pound and served chilled, sliced thin.

Whole and boneless hams as well as ham slices make impressive holiday gifts. Turner also sells local bread and butter pickles, chow chow, and local biscuit mixes, and other Virginia specialties to serve with the ham. Christmas breakfast, lunch or dinner are all full of hammy possibilities.

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