2008/04/28

WETA Guide to D.C. Fine Dining

By JULIETTE ROSSANT

WETA Guide to Fine Dining 2008

What makes the WETA Guide to Fine Dining, which premiers on Thursday, May 15, at 9pm (with repeats on May 17 and 25 at 5:30 pm), such a standout is that it highlights the best of Washington's fine dining restaurant – letting the chefs speak largely for themselves. In a snap shot, the show reveals the inspiration behind each restaurant and its personality. Along with a standard book guide or newspaper review – it’s a handy way to figure out what kind of restaurant and what kind of food you really want to eat.

At times, the show can sound a bit like promotional material from the DC Visitors bureau - but for all that, it is useful and fast paced. It gets to the heart of each restaurant quickly.

It is good to see WETA celebrate a city that has so greatly improved its restaurants. Years ago, choices were limited, but now some of the world's top chefs are competing in Washington DC. (Wolfgang Puck and Eric Ripert have recently opened restaurants). The first chef is Michel Richard, who introduces the playful trompe bouche cuisine of his flagship Citronelle. His chocolate degustation, he explains, was inspired by KFC chicken he ate as a newcomer to the US, something he had never had in his native France. He reproduces the crunch coating and moist chicken – in this case with a crunchy crepe in ganache that is served frozen cut into Kit Kat bar-like pieces. "I feel like a Santa Claus. I give food." He looks the part.

Innovators include Morou Outtara of Farrah Olivia and Jose Andres who shows of minibar inside Café Atlantico. The approach is how you might eat a meal – why you might go – not how he actually prepares any particular dish. He offers an olive oil bonbon and 26 to 30 different courses to the lucky few who eat at his exclusive, experimental restaurant within a restaurant.
A restaurant is a memory box. When I have a lot of memory, and the box is full of them, it's time to open a restaurant. You could say that minibar is all the little memory boxes I have full, put into one small space.
And it all comes down to the customer having fun.

Michel Richard on WETA Guide to Fine Dining 2008

For steak, the Guide visits The Prime Rib, Charlie Palmer Steak, Ray's the Steaks, and The Palm. In each it shows quickly what special – décor, steaks, or service. You meet the chef or the owner, or whoever really makes the restaurant a stand out.

The show ends at the Inn at Little Washington – with Patrick O'Connell explaining what he does and shots of the kitchen staff stretching and listening to Gregorian chants. The short pieces explain why O'Connell is one of the best chefs in America.

Even if you are a local – the Guide to Fine Dining will remind you of Washington DC's gem and inspire you to try something new or return to an old haunt.

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