2007/01/02

Todd English: Food Trip

By JULIETTE ROSSANT

Todd English, Food Tripper, by Anthony Tieuli for WGBH

Food Trip with Todd English is finally being broadcast after looking for a home for several years (see previous article). Super Chef has been following the on-again-off-again saga of this and Todd English's other shows -- Open Kitchen and The American Chef –– as they aired or failed to air on Boston's WGBH. Now, Food Trip is finally airing on WLIW in New York, premiering on January 8 at 10:30 P.M. with 13 episodes. It is also airing on a number of American Public Television stations across the country.

Here's the show's blurb from APT:
During his travels at home and abroad, Todd explores a different dish or culinary tradition, drawing inspiration for new recipes from each locale's native cuisine and ingredients. He ventures to the Far East to learn more about Tokyo's sushi delicacies and its prized Kobe beef. In Phoenix, Todd explores the city's Mexican influences, tasting fish tacos and chili from some of its best taquerias. Later, Todd discovers the breads that define New York City's diverse ethnic neighborhoods — from the delicious naan of East 6th Street's Indian restaurants to the classic bialy.
This is what Todd says about the show in the press release:
I get a lot of ideas from traveling around the country and the world. Cooking is often an interpretation of one's experience and one' knowledge. Food Trip with Todd English is the kind of program that will show how people and places inspire me –– and how public television viewers can also be motivated to get back to their own kitchens and create their own inspired dishes.
Sponsorship packagers SGPTV classify the show as "lifestyle" with demographics of adults/women ages 35-64.

That's all well and fine -- but what is exciting about a new travel food show these days?

TV has shown plenty of such shows, from the already-served to the fresh -- from Food Nation with Bobby Flay and Rachael Ray's $40 a Day to current shows like Jamie and Bobby Dean's Road Tasted, and Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations. The Food Network tested this genre a decade ago with Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, when Too Hot Tamales rolled into Tamales World Tour (a total of 296 episodes between 1995 and 1999 -- see Super Chef, pp. 152-156).

Food Trip is no better, for two major reasons.

First, television has been there and done that -- not just the concept, but even the places. In Food Trip's first episode, Todd visits the Tsukiji Fish Market, but Anthony Bourdain has visited the same market on camera. Even two pals of Todd's, Martha Stewart and Nobu Matsuhisa, have shot an episode at that market.

What new twist does Todd add to the Tsukiji? Well, about all he can add is that his pal Nobu uses it (and just about every other sushi chef of repute in Tokyo). What he does not add is that Nobu has a restaurant next to what once was Todd's Olives Tokyo because they both used to be partners with Soho Hospitality Group (see Super Chef, pp. 126-129). What he might have added is that Todd's Tokyo outlet has folded. Well, if Todd did not add much to the market description, perhaps he at least saved himself some expenses, doubling up the Tokyo shoot with the restaurant's closure...

Todd English, Food Tripper

Second, there is the problem of Todd. As far as documentaries go, Food Trip's camera lovingly capturing knife strokes, glistening fish, and Todd's sharp jaw-line chomping down on another piece of uni. What is odd is Todd. Sometimes he seems close to mustering some sincere excitement about his personal likes when it comes to food. At other times, he seems confusedly led by some unseen person, who also interviews him. Either way, Todd's delivery is flat. Often, he can not read his lines clearly, much less with passion.

Some chefs are born for moving pictures: Todd was born for the still camera to love and caress him. He has neither eloquence nor straightforwardness nor banter. During the second episode, again about seafood (this time on Nantucket), Todd quips, "I'm here with my good friend Spanky, teaching me the fine art of scalloping here in Nantucket Island, and it's quite fascinating I must say." The he bursts out with a few tee-hee's most reminiscent of... George W. Bush!

During that first episode, Todd comments:
One of the things I like best about sushi is that you develop a relationship with the chef who gets to know what you like and takes the time to prepare it just for you.
That could be a quaint, nostalgic comment, were it coming from a Fine Dining veteran -- but it is hardly welcome from a super chef presiding over an empire of restaurants. If Todd has such sincere pangs and longings, then perhaps he needs to step back from the camera and starting cooking and schmoozing more again in his own restaurants.

Press Releases:
American Public Television (show)
American Public Television (Fall 2006)
SGPTV

Related news:
Variety, Boston Globe, Boston Herald, Boston Magazine, Blog Thirteen, AOL, Chicago Tribune, Boston Herald, Arizona Republic, Boston Herald, Arizona Republic, KUED

Broadcasting news:
TV Guide, WLIW, WNET, WGBH, WTTW, WYCC, Alabama Public Television, KET, KLRN, KACV, MPT, Wisconsin Public Television, KERA , KQED, KYVE, KCTS, OPB, Rocky Mountain PBS

Previous articles:
Todd English: Flavor Perfections
Todd English: Beau Rivage
Daniel Boulud v. Todd English: Initial Branding
Todd English, Beer Gourmet
Todd English Chefs MTV Video Music Awards
Cooking Under Fire: Doused
Romancing the Stove - or The Way We Worked?
Todd English: Pitching After Puck
English Is Italian: No Stars
Cooking Under Fire: Already Over Done?
Todd English's Foodie Hotel
Todd English: Pots and Pans Pucked?
Todd English: Childrens Oscars (Update)
Todd English Winner Gets "English is Italian"?
Todd English Slums With Jeffrey Chodorow
Todd English: Trip Over Table
Todd English Flipflops between Bush and Kerry?
Iron Chef: America vs. USA
Todd English: American Chef Gone Wild

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