The Anatomy of Dessert

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Instead of buying Let's Go Britain and Ireland or the Lonely Planet Guide to Great Britain, think of the riches to be had in a slim volume originally published in London in 1929, whose sole concern is fruit. Consider this passage in the chapter on pears: We may be proud of it as one of the few universal pears which are of British origin, and behind the old church at Aldermaston, near Reading, may be seen a simple stone marking the resting place of John Stair , "Schoolmaster of this Parish--errected by his grateful Pupils." His other memorial is the pear now known as Williams, but which in his country is still called Stair's Pear, and since that year of its birth, 1770, it has travelled far. Arriving in London a certain nurseryman Williams, thought well to give it his own name, as did a certain Mr. Bartlett when it arrived in America. (p.64) Would it not be interesting to search in Aldermaston for a perfect Stair's Pear? Imagine riding through the countryside of England, enjoying the rare varieties of apple, pear or strawberry described with such abundant love, wit, and humor by Edward A. Bunyard in his book, The Anatomy of Dessert: With a Few Notes on Wine (Modern Library 2006). He calls forth the great expressiveness of the English language to lavish on fruit, and the perfect moment to enjoy each variety. The man who cannot appreciate a Blenheim has not come to years of gustatory discretion; he probably drinks sparkling Muscatelle. There is in this noble fruit a mellow austerity as of a great Port in its prime, a reminder of those placid Oxford meadows which gave it birth in the shadow of the great Palace of Blenheim. Like Oxford, too, it adopts a leaisurely pace, refusing to be hurried to maturity or to relinquish its hold on life. An apple of the Augustan Age. p. 6) As a Pomologist, describing the origin, taste and qualities of lyrically named apples, Bunyard is rivaled by none. He cautions that town dwellers know nothing of the great qualities of the fruit he describes. He is witty, funny, and literary, referring to Pliny in the same breath as plums. This edition comes with an introduction by Michael Pollan, and one by Ruth Reichl as well as a preface by David Karp and a preface to the American edition by Bunyard himself. followed by his own introduction. Do not skip a word of his. Previous articles: [Cookbook Reviews – complete] Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging, cookbooks --> back to Super Chef