Columnists Thumb Emeril

By JULIETTE ROSSANT It started last Thursday in The New York Post, when columnist Cindy Adams reported comments by super chef Emeril Lagasse as follows: The mayor's a clunk. The governor is also a clunk. They don't know their (nether sections) from a hole in the ground. All my three restaurants got hit. I've reopened Emeril's, but only a few locals come. There's no tourists. No visitors. No spenders. No money. No future. No people. It's lost. It'll never come back. Enter Times-Picayune columnist Chris Rose. He resented Emeril's comments so much that his article-in-reply is titled "Stay in the kitchen: Shut up and cook" and opens with the recommendation that Emeril's new special should be Foot-in-Mouth, followed by an explanation of how citizens in New Orleans feel betrayed. Emeril's corporate headquarters sent the following statement to The Times-Picayune's restaurant critic Brett Anderson: The article is not an accurate representation of the way I feel about New Orleans. I completely support the city, which is the reason I have based both my family and my business operations here for over 20 years. I did, however, express my concerns about the leadership in our city and the state. I have absolutely not lost hope in our city, I just sometimes lose patience, as I feel that things should be moving forward much faster than they are at this time. I did not say that the city or the people will never come back. I am committed to this city, and I have no doubt that New Orleans will be back, and that it will be better than ever. I am also extremely grateful to all of our local customers -- it is because of them that we are able to operate in this unbelievably difficult time. I believe that we are all in this together, and we need to work together to encourage each other, not discourage the positive growth in our city. I will continue to support this great city in the rebuilding effort in any way I can. Rose notes accurately that Emeril has reopened only two of his three restaurants in New Orleans (Emeril's and NOLA but not Delmonico's), but Emeril has not explained why Delmonico's remains closed at this pont in time, though he did announce his plan to re-open all his restaurants back in September 2005 (see press release). What are further Emeril's plans? So far, he continues to re-open to a greater degree in the city, having just added some lunches back to Emeril's and NOLA late last month (see press release). (See our previous article.) Rose claims that other restaurants are packed and blames Emeril for not re-opening Delmonico's, too, and for laying off staff. An earlier article notes that Emeril has been missing from the city. What Rose and colleagues are missing is that Emeril is simply not a New Orleans chef: he's a national chef, a super chef -- an "empire-building celebrity chef." This is no defense or excuse but fact: he has many other commitments outside of New Orleans and a schedule that includes TV and other Media appearances. A business empire also means that he has deputies and other staff to delegate to. If Rose's article speaks for a majority or large number of New Orleans residents, then it would appear that Emeril may need to clarify to the city that while New Orleans is his home base, he has other commitments equally if not more important. Of course, that's a message that would not go down well, either, in New Orleans just now. Subsequent stories: Scripps Howard News Service Super chefs: Emeril Lagasse Related news: Times-Picayune New York Post Cleveland Plain Dealer Previous articles: Emeril Re-Opens in New Orleans Halloween: Emeril's Delmonico Cookbook Emeril Lagasse: Carnivale du Vin All-Stars Emeril: Miami Rocks for Relief Technorati Tags: superchefblog, Juliette Rossant, super chef, celebrities, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine, blogging, food blogging --> back to superchefblog