Gordon Ramsay: A Chef For All Seasons

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Gordon Ramsay's A Chef for All Seasons (Ten Speed Press September 2005) calls to mind the title of A Man for All Seasons. This British play in 1962 and movie in 1966 (winning six Oscars and seven BAFTAs) depicts Sir Thomas More's struggle between the dictates of his king (Henry VIII) and of his own conscience. Surely, Gordo cannot see himself as Thomas More? If anyone, his would have to be the role of Henry VIII, the bullying king who will divorce his first of six wives, Catherine of Aragon, who will marry Ann Boleyn, and who will have his subject obey his every whim, even if that means starting the Church of England to satisfy his own lusts and executing anyone who stands against him (including the unfortune More). In Gordon's cookbook title, are we witness to delusions of power, as have been manifest in his outlandish performances on the recently aired Hell's Kitchen? More ominously, by referring to this well known play and movie, is Gordo declaring future political intentions? Regarding the drama, the answer is no, no, and no. More surprisingly, compared to his previously published book in America, In the Heat of the Kitchen, what we have instead is not a dumbed-down cookbook for home cooking but rather the commanding flow of instruction -- of a kind that has led many to proclaim Gordon king of English cookery and the greatest chef to have blessed Albion's shores in many an age. As for the Politics, though, they do come into play -- because A Chef for All Season is in fact a not-so-shy, seditious manifesto on behalf of Gordon's homeland of Scotland. Just look at the choice of recipes. Gordon includes Wild Strawberry Shortbreads (p. 94), a shortbread cookie favorite in Scotland, made with pate sablee, and filled with a strawberry coulis and a ring of fraise des bois. Though he doesn't say so, one suspects that luscious wild strawberries lurk along the very moors of Scotland. In a second recipe, Pannacotta with Raspberries (p. 96), he notes, "One of my favorite restaurants, I am delighted to say, is in Scotland." You need more proof? There are plenty of underhanded references to the wonders of the ancient homeland of the Picts laced among his beguiling recipes. Gordon offers Poached Wild Salmon with Gewurtztraminer Sauce (p. 77) in which he describes "swimming in strong currents and feeding on a completely wild diet" -- subtly describing the wild Highland rivers teeming with salmon. How about Smoked Haddock and Mustard Chowder (p. 171): "In Scotland, they call a thick haddock and potato soup like this cullen skink." Or, Woodcock with Carmelized Parsnips and Chocolate Sauce (pp. 188-189): woodcocks are a favorite Scottish bird, both for shooting and for cooking. And then there is My Special Steak Tartare and Fries (p. 197): "the main requirement is the very best tenderloin steak from the very best beef, which can only be from well-hung Aberdeen Angus cattle" -- that's the Angus breed of Aberdeen, Scotland (home of the internationally infamous and notorious Aberdeen-Angus Cattle Society). Further, these recipes also punctuate Gordon's obsession with fine ingredients. Gordon is clearly a chauvinistic admirer of things both French and Scottish. In his hands, indisputably these combine to make great food -- but let us not forget that the French and Scottish have, over the centuries, combined to make seditious politics as lately as Bonnie Prince Charlie -- practically the near past in the Old World's view of time. (Donald Rumsfeld, are you listening? Better sick the FBI on Gordo: sounds about as dangerous as that other political wacko John Lennon.) This unabashed partiality to Scotland goes on and on. Charlie Trotter -- ho-ho, another self-confessed Scot! -- introduces the book: "Another reason I am partial to Gordon is our shared Scottish heritage." Charlie confesses, "Some consider Scots to be a bit rough and headstrong at times, but it is always in the pursuit of excellence." As for the cookbook itself, the photography is again the wondrous work of Georgia Glynn Smith. Each chapter starts with an introduction by Gordon that lists the ingredients which inspire him in a particular season of the year. This is a well written book, but the recipes are definitely not for anyone starting out in the kitchen. Gordon expects a certain amount of confidence and knowledge, but it is a fun book with beautiful photographs for sophisticated dishes that capture the seasons. What drives Gordon are often the more exotic but still reasonably easy-to-find ingredients, like poussin, fresh garlic, and fava beans. Even then, Gordon cannot resist mentioning that he prefers Scottish lamb and Whiting ("my Mums favorite, common in Scotland," both p. 12). Gordon writes: One of the highlights of the summer 1999 was cooking a celebration lunch for the opening of the Scottish Parliament at Kincardine House (p. 106) If Gordon becomes a Member of the Scottish Parliament, superchefblog predicted it first! Previous articles: Michael Schlow: It's About Time Gordon Ramsay: In the Heat of the Kitchen Roy Yamaguchi: Roy's Fish & Seafood Cookbook Magic Bests Harry Potter Michael Lomonaco: Nightly Specials Will Write for Food: Dianne Jacob Mario Batali: Molto Italiano The Oldest Cuisine in the World: Jean Bottero Suvir Saran Spins Indian Home Cooking Biro: European-Inspired Cuisine July 4: Paul Gayler's The Gourmet Burger July 4: East Meets West Robert Klein: The Amorous Busboy of Decatur Avenue Christy Campbell: The Botanist and the Vintner Kathleen Daelemans: Getting Thin and Loving Food! Aroma: Daniel Patterson and Mandy Aftel Tyler Florence: Eat This Book The Perfectionist by Rudolph Chelminski Bobby Flay's Grilling for Life Mother's Day Gift: Finding Betty Crocker The Sensual Language of Baklava: Diana Abu-Jaber Paula Deen & Friends Roland Mesnier's Dessert University Puerto Rico: Grand Cuisine of the Caribbean Don Pintabona: Shared Table Annabel Karmel: First Meals Nigella Lawson's Feast Cook Like a Kyrgyz Ozzie Dining Downunder and Bushfood Personal Favorites: The Chefs of Las Vegas Anne Willan: The Good Cook Gale Gand's short+sweet More Food from Alton Brown Manju Malhi's India With Passion SOS: Baking from the Heart Madhur Jaffrey: Our Lady of India, CBE Amazon UK's Steamy Xmas Chefs All Hail Alfred Portale Agassi's Star Palate: Celebrity Chefs Book links: Publisher Amazon.com Technorati Tags: chefs food restaurants cooking branding cuisine cookbooks Television Reality TV --> back to superchefblog