CHEF PROFILE: Suvir Saran - Super Chef

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Julia Child once told me how much she hated spicy food, including Indian (see previous article). Would she be rolling in her grave if she knew what chef Suvir Saran was up to? His aim is not exactly modest -- no less than the elevation of Indian Cuisine to the level of respect accorded French, Italian, Japanese, and other world cuisines. With a whirlwind of projects slated around the world this year and next, Suvir just might accomplish this feat. The first feat will come in just a few days, on the other side of the world -- and elevate Suvir to super chef status by adding the requisite geographic spread to his restaurant empire (see sidebar article). Suvir told superchefblog: My partner, Rakesh Aggarwal said, "If I keep you bored for a minute you will wander. I want you to have a full plate." He has done that: we have plans for the next five years including opening a restaurant in Europe. Been wondering about what sets super chefs off from other chefs? Try a Five Year Plan. Or, work all the time: Suvir claims that he gets only about two and a half hours of sleep a night: From 1:00 a.m. until 12:00 noon I am working with Indians, talking with them. From 12:00 noon until midnight I am on New York time. I live in two worlds. He catches a few winks from 4:30 a.m. to 7:00 a.m. -- reminiscent of other super chefs like Wolfgang Puck (see Super Chef, pp. 47-48). Suvir is no stranger to a challenge. His first restaurant, Devi, opened last year on 18th Street in New York, taking on neighborhood heavyweights like Gramercy Tavern (20th Street) and Craft (19th Street). Reviewers raved: Frank Bruni of The New York Times wrote, "it works its exotic magic through its take on Indian food, more varied, multidimensional, nimble and surprising here than at the scores of samosa factories throughout these vindaloo-bewitched precincts." A little later this Fall, Suvir plans to open more than the one restaurant in New Delhi. Back at homebase, he will open up a lower-priced eatery in New York's financial district (sorry: details are still under embargo outside the Press). Then, next Spring he plans to open a restaurant/lounge with an outdoor garden on Brooklyn's Fifth Avenue. The embargo is not so strict here, so superchefblog can share that the interior will contain "terribly chic leftovers of English Raj style" of madras and gingham. Suvir described the menu thus: "The food will be authentic, served in a welcoming, attractive setting with modest neighborhood restaurant prices." Meanwhile, Suvir serves as executive chef for Rakesh Aggarwal's 18 units of the Baluchi's restaurant concept -- and clearly plans to expand that, too, if judging only from the multiple state locations they have planned for on the Locations webpage. Suvir is working on upgrading the Baluchi's menu -- to refresh this successful chain in the feeding of 22,000 guests per week. Outside of restaurants, Suvir has rolled out the first of three cookbooks under contract to Clarkson Potter (see previous review). Indian Home Cooking was published earlier this year. Next is planned 50 Recipes from America's Favorite Indian Restaurant from Baluchi's. A third is entitled American Masala: 125 Classics from My Home Kitchen, to include recipes outside of Indian cuisine like grits, corn bread, fried chicken, and macaroni and cheese -- don't expect these to taste like the American originals, though. What else is in the mix? He is shooting a pilot for a TV cooking show in America. He is designing utensils. He will market a line of spices and sauces. All the while, he will continue to teach cooking courses as often as he can. Expanding so rapidly means Suvir needs executive-level staff that are motivated to stay with him. Hemant Mathur has been co-executive chef at Devi and will be again at Veda from day one. Mathur is his guarantor, so that as Suvir juggles his many roles, kitchen standards are never compromised. When he expands further, he will hire or promote more chefs to the Executive Chef level. "I am not hungry for power, but to share Indian cuisine the right way," Suvir told superchefblog. "The life of the brand is healthier that way." Suvir depends on his colleagues -- especially partner Rakesh Aggarwal: Rakesh created a huge stir with his first handful of restaurants. And today, a decade and more later, he is ready to share his genius with New York City once over. And to that end, I am but a mere instrument. He is the owner and financial backer. ...I earn my keep by delivering and strategizing. Rakesh is amazing in that he indulges the creative side of me and always balances it out with his years of business savvy. So, after all this, would Julia Child indeed be rolling over in her grave? It would be better if she were still with us, because she could have pronounced her own verdict at the James Beard Foundation, where tonight Suvir will preside as master chef and present his cooking for judgement. In Julia's absence, superchefblog welcomes Suvir to the exclusive list of super chefs in the world and wishes him all the best. Sidebar: Suvir Saran: Behold Veda to the East Press Releases: PRWeb NewsPad KeralaNext.com Chef Profiles: Chef Profile: Rick Moonen in Las Vegas Rick Moonen on Work and Passion Previous articles: Suvir Saran Spins Indian Home Cooking Update: Save Julia Child's TV Channel Technorati Tags: superchefblog, super chef, chefs, food, restaurants, cooking, branding, cuisine --> back to superchefblog