2005/06/01

Aroma: Daniel Patterson and Mandy Aftel


By JULIETTE ROSSANT

Aroma, by Mandy Aftel and Daniel PattersonPerfume makes me think of the Middle East, where men and women alike favor heavy perfumes and even taxi and bus drivers will offer you a little lemon cologne for your hands. Perfurmeries still exist in the bazaars of Istanbul, Cairo, Damascus, and Jeddah and remind us that the ancient Silk Road (see map) carried spices and scents from the Far East to Europe through these cities. Vying with all this scent in the Middle East is the smell of food everywhere: onions and tumeric, cinnamon and curry, and lamb, beef, and chicken simmering in stews. It's a wonder that no chef has teamed up with a perfumer before Aroma (Artisan 2004), a fascinating new cookbook and fragrance guide by Mandy Aftel, owner of Aftelier Perfumes and a natural perfumer, and Daniel Patterson, formerly chef at Frisson in San Francisco. If cuisine is about taste and not only presentation, then it truly is about smell.

This is a handsome book, from the front cover photo of Mint-Infused Asparagus Soup (p. 39) to the rainbow from pale greens, blues to rust red colored paper used throughout. It is a book meant to inspire visually the very scents described within. Although the English language is better suited to evoking sights than scents, this book is intriguing. The table of contents is a bit complicated because each section has recipes for both the perfumer and the cook. There are helpful chapters such as The Perfumer's Pantry (p.19) and The Cook's Pantry ((p. 27) and then recipes organized around themes such as "Refreshing," which includes Spearmint, Cucumber, Lime , Orange, and Lemon Verbena, and "Spicy," which has Cinnamon, Black Pepper, Ginger, Cumin, and Coriander. They are fun to explore or you can search through recipe lists for both fragrances and cooking.

Fragrance recipes are fewer but many are quite fun for gifts like Saffron, Ginger, and Blood Orange Bath Salts (p. 192) or Lemon Verbena-Lavender Mist (p. 60). There are also recipes for nightime face elixirs, solid and liquid perfumes, and moisturizing body oils.

Litsea CubebaSome of the recipes from this book takes a little planning. You have to buy in a health food store or online various kinds of essential oils like black pepper essential oil for the Black Pepper-Scenter Pok Shoulder Confit (pp. 154-5) -- don't forget your litsea cubeba essential oil for the Steamed Artichokes with -- you guessed it -- Litsea Cubeba Mayonnaise (p. 95). Other recipes are less exotic, like Poached Chicken with Tarragon (p. 79) or the Blood Orange, Fennel, and Avocado Salad (p. 55). The recipe for Jasmine Liquid Perfume contains many exotic ingredients like labdanum absolute, jasmine sambac absolute, and orange essential oil but the White Peach-Jasmine Sorbet is much simpler -- white peaches, lemon juice and jasmine pearls, a kind of jasmine tea (p.111).

OK, I poked fun at the litsea cubeba, but in fact just including such oddities is an act of bravery that helps to spread knowledge and increase familiarity. Who knows: perhaps the next generation will see its share of children named Litsea right among all the Lauras and Lisas.

Previous articles:
Tyler Florence: Eat This Book
The Perfectionist by Rudolph Chelminski
Bobby Flay's Grilling for Life
Mother's Day Gift: Finding Betty Crocker
The Sensual Language of Baklava: Diana Abu-Jaber
Paula Deen & Friends
Roland Mesnier's Dessert University
Puerto Rico: Grand Cuisine of the Caribbean
Don Pintabona: Shared Table
Annabel Karmel: First Meals
Nigella Lawson's Feast
Cook Like a Kyrgyz
Personal Favorites: The Chefs of Las Vegas
Anne Willan: The Good Cook
Gale Gand's short+sweet
More Food from Alton Brown
Manju Malhi's India With Passion
SOS: Baking from the Heart
Madhur Jaffrey: Our Lady of India, CBE
Amazon UK's Steamy Xmas Chefs
All Hail Alfred Portale
Agassi's Star Palate: Celebrity Chefs

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