Anne Willan: The Good Cook

By JULIETTE ROSSANT When I admit to myself that I don't know how to make something I've tasted or read about, I want to reach for a book that won't be too pedantic and yet will fill me in on all I need to do -- leaving room for my imagination and the subtle changes in ingredients. I want a lesson with room to maneuver. Such a book is The Good Chef by Anne Willan (Stewart Tabori & Chang, 2004). It would make a great gift for a friend who claims not to know how to cook (and therefore says she can't invite you over for dinner because you do!), but it would equally make a great addition to any cook's library. This isn't The Joy of Cooking: this is a book of really important cooking lessons, wrapped around terrific recipes that any chef would want to add to his or her repertoire. Julia Child put Anne at the top of her list for people whom I should interview when I told her (Julia) about my book Super Chef over lunch (see previous article). Among Anne's many and excellent books, her great knowledge of French Classical cuisine is well displayed in Great Cooks and their Recipes, while her La Varenne Pratique is the backbone of The Good Cook. Unlike Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking, that for me at times overcomplicates a French Classic like Blanquette de Veau, (in my 40th edition, Blanquette de Veau a l'Ancienne runs from pp.362-364), Anne's version takes up one page (p.189), making it less intimidating for any cook. Her recipe follows a description of how to make a meat stew with a handy box on clues on stews. Julia's version is a great classic, but I prefer Anne's. Anne Willan doesn't limit herself to French classics, though. In the stew section she gives a recipe for Indian Lamb Curry (p.187), Tajine of Lamb with Eggplant and Olives, and Carbonnade (both on p.188). Each chapter is on a different ingredient: meats, vegetables, sauces and includes 70 different techniques. The photographs are pretty and useful -– less finished product than how to do some step like cut up a chicken. The only photo of Willan herself is on the cover (one of five) and on the back flap. Her writing, the voice of a great teacher (the founder of La Varenne Cooking School) makes everything sound do-able and yet reasonable. I am glad I own The Good Cook. Previous articles: Gale Gand's short+sweet More Food From Alton Brown Manju Malhi's India With Passion SOS: Baking From the Heart Madhur Jaffrey: Our Lady of India, CBE All Hail Alfred Portale Agassi's Star Palate: Celebrity Chefs Book Links: Publisher Amazon.com Technorati Tags: chefs restaurants food cookbooks biography branding -> back to superchefblog