More Halloween Mexicana, from Rick Bayless

By JULIETTE ROSSANT I received a lovely note from Rick Bayless' office which interprets and explains the Day of the Dead -- I believe the same is offered to guests when they arrive: In pre-hispanic Mexico, Day of the Dead was a holiday dedicated to celebrate children and the dead, symbolizing the continuity of life. The original celebration took place at the end of July and beginning of August. In the post-conquest time, Spanish priests moved the event to coincide with the Christian holiday of All Saints Day in an effort to transform a heathen ritual to a Christian one. Mexicans now remember the dead on November 1st and 2nd in a blend of ancient aboriginal and introduced Christian festivities. Families visit graves of their close kin, decorate them with flowers, and set out the favorite foods of the deceased. These foods might be a mole, hot chocolate with airy egg bread, or sugary confections in the shape of skulls. At home, altars are also set-up like the one you see here [at Frontera Grill]. These might feature photos of the deceased, their favorite objects, or symbols of fond activity. If Tio Arnulfo liked to sip a fine Tequila during a game of cards with his amigos, he will be pleased that he can still do so finding what he needs in the ofrenda. Now here is the part that really got me: In the nearly 18 years of our restaurant, staff and family members have passed on, and we remember them all at this special time with much love. I think Wolf and the rest of us could learn something here from Rick: instead of the nauseating "live, love, eat," how about "Eat, Love -- and Die Happy!"? Come to think of it, there is a line in the King James Bible like that, Genesis 27-4: and make me savoury food, such as I love, and bring it to me, that I may eat; that my soul may bless thee before I die. Happy Day of the Dead! Viva Mexico! Subsequent articles: Day of the Dead: Frida Kahlo in New York Previous articles: Halloween Mexicana: Day of the Dead a la Super Chef