Suzanne Goin Eats a la Julia Child

By JULIETTE ROSSANT Suzanne Goin, chef/owner of A.O.C. and Lucques in Los Angeles, sent out a lovely email invitation/FYI message last night: "This Sunday we are doing a tribute to Julia Child as our Sunday Supper." There is something wonderful about this. Perhaps other chefs are getting into the act, but Suzanne's is the first I've heard of -- and I love it. It's so, so... "Julia"! Celebrating Julia's death with a meal is like playing jazz at a New Orleans funeral. Forgive me if I paraphrase Hemmingway here: If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young [wo]man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast. -- Ernest Hemmingway, A Moveable Feast, 1964 And, of course, bon appetit, chez Goin -- and thank you, Suzanne. a dinner honoring julia child sunday, august 22, 2004 starter julia’s "cold buffet" vichyssoise (cold leek and potato soup) oeufs mollets with tarragon mayonnaise salad à la d’argenson (potato and beet salad) * * * main course poulets grilles a la diable chicken with mustard, herbs, and breadcrumbs hot-buttered green beans and frisee or fricadelles de veau a la nicoise veal patties with tomatoes, onions, and herbs stuffed tomatoes and opal basil * * * dessert nancy silverton’s brioche tart with white secret sauce from baking with julia